Chalo.

Where to sleep?

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Wild camping is quite difficult aside the road in India, simply because there are people almost everywhere. Nepal is better for camping, but no problem if you don't have a tent or don't wish to camp, you will always pass (little) towns in days cycling distance offering cheap accomodation. 

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In India 5 to 10 euro should get you a comfortable room. You almost always have to bargain and it pays to check out a few hotels, the cities you will pass offer different options.If you're on a tight 

budget, you can find cheaper options but mostly with very doubtful hygiene.  

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In Nepal lodging gets even more cheaper and you can find a place for as cheap as 2 euro. But again, here as well, hygienic standards tend to be very low and at times i considered putting up my tent inside the room. Not too much options along the Terai, but in day cycling distance you will always find something, being it a homestay, guesthouse, hotel or temple. Bigger cities like Tansen, Pokhara and Kathmandu have many options of cheap good quality lodging.

In Lumbini I would advise to stay at one of the many buddhist monasteries. It's cheap and a nice way to experience the monks life. In Tilaurakot (Kapilvastu) there's a very nice Thai buddhist monastery. They welcomed me and a cycling buddy I met a couple of days before, as their first official guests.

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What to eat?

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The stretch from Delhi to the border you will pass many dhabas, these are roadside restaurants, mostly unexpensive and serving local cuisine. If you don't like too spicy food, ask for non spicy, it will still be hot.. Most hotels have their own restaurant, but i would not advise to eat there, they receive so few customers, food is mostly not fresh. Go hit the street and look for a busy foodstall 

or restaurant where the locals eat.

 

Entering Nepal, things culinary turn rapidly basic, you will be eating a lot of daal bhat, every day. It’s the traditional Nepali meal, available everywhere. It consists of lentils (daal) and white 

rice (bhat). It’s not a five star meal but it will give you full power...24hour :)

 

Once you enter cities as Pokhara and Kathmandu (and some smaller touristy towns like Tansen and Bandipur), it’s a western food dream paradise: pizza, hamburgers, German bakeries, chocolate 

cakes, cappuccinos, shakes, ... You name it, you can get it. Meat (even steaks) are also available but i advise you to be careful with it, I would advise to be vegetarian in India and Nepal.

 

Every small town you pass through there are many little shops selling bottled water, packaged cookies, Maggi noodles, sweets, chocolates,... Also many fruit stalls where you can buy bananas and tea stalls you can take a rest and drink a chai tea. And 'hotels' which are confusingly often places to eat, places to sleep being referred to as lodges.

 

Tip: I packed some energy bars and multivitamin tablets from home which were a good addition to my local meals.

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When to go?

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I started the trip at the end of October. I found 'post monsoon' time to be an excellent time as skies were clear of dust, temperatures are warm but there's still some cloud cover, taking the bite out of the sun.(cycling in t shirt and wearing cap for sun protection, mornings and evenings i sometimes needed some extra layers to keep warm).

 

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How did the border crossing go?

 

The border crossing Banbasa (India) / Mahendranagar (Nepal) is very straightforward and friendly. No scams or hassles. Get your exit stamp in the small border post office on your right just after 

crossing the bridge. Their is a sign but it’s easy to pass by it. And bit further up on the left there is small house with an officer to give you visa on arrival (if you don’t have one in advance). 

The current cost of a visa on arrival is USD25 for 15 days, USD40 for 30 days or if extending your stay USD100 for 90 days. 

You will also need a passport photo. The visa fee can be paid in US Dollars, Pounds Sterling or Euros. Rupees are accepted but you will get a very bad rate!

 

 

How to navigate?

 

To navigate i used good old Google Maps on my phone. You don't need to be connected to the internet, just download the maps you need in advance when on WIFI. I used it many times to find my way out of Delhi and when searching accomodation in Indian towns along the way. Once in Nepal, you will not need gps anymore, the route is very straightforward, you just follow the HO1

East-West Highway untill the turn to Kapilvastu.

 

 

Where to get a SIM card?

 

You can buy prepaid SIM cards in both India and Nepal. In India i choose for Airtel, you can get one at the airport or at one of the many phone shops (i got mine at the Airtel shop at Connaught Place, Delhi). Make sure you have 2 color passport photographs, your passport and your Indian visa with you. I didn't really understand but they also needed contact details of a hotel or friend for verification and activation of my number. 

Make sure roaming is activated once you enter a different state. Using 3G and roaming is cheap, i got 1GB for about 250 Indian Rupees (appr. 3 euro) and i lasted me over a month.

In Nepal i got my Ncell SIM card in the bordertown Mahendranagar. You will have to fill out forms (they even took all my finger prints..!) and again provide passport photographs.

All along this route i mostly had surprisingly good 3G internet connection.

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Where can i withdraw money?

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There are ATM's in every town/city you pass by in India. In Nepal you can withdraw money once having crossed the border, in the town of Mahendranagar. In the Terai you will find ATM's in every bigger settlement. In bigger cities like Pokhara and Kathmandu you will find plenty.

 

 

How safe is it?

 

In general, i would say India and Nepal is relatively safe to cycle (even being a woman alone). Just be always aware of who is around you and don’t hold back showing or saying to guys to leave 

you alone if they would hassle you. Cycling is not a lifestyle of choice for the average middle class Indian, rather the transport of those who cannot afford anything else. So prepare to get some attention and selfie requests. (if you ever wondered how it must feel to be famous, this is your chance!)

The danger shows itself more in the road and traffic situation. Indian roads are incredible busy and very few main roads have a shoulder. Size is power on India's roads and in the caste system of 

transport, cyclists rank just a notch above pedestrians and street dogs. Cars and motorized vehicles rarely, if ever, give way to cyclists. 

You will rather be honked at while drivers speed towards you. 

Nepal is not as intense as India, less people and less busy traffic. The people in the villages are very shy but also curious and you will be knocked out by their friendliness. 

 

 

How much did I spend per day?

 

In India I spent an average of 8 to 12 euro per day. That's for food, drinks and basic accomodation. The Terai i could cut it down to about 7 to 10 euro per day. In bigger cities like Pokhara and Kathmandu I treated myself to western food and bit upscale lodging, meaning spending a bit more, maybe average of 15 euro.