Delhi to Kathmandu cycling

~~Capetown to Addo NP (SOUTH AFRICA)~~

Cycling towards the Garden Route

Appr. 17 days / 1000km

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In short

This route takes you all along the N2 Highway on to the Garden Route towards Port Elizabeth. An other option is to go a bit up into the higher Karoo. It is a climb to get to this area but once you are in this area it is supposed to be more flat. The ride is not very difficult but does makes you realise South Africa is hilly..

Pics

Route & map

Start

Capetown

Day 2

Muizenberg

Day 4

Franschhoek

Day 6

Riviersonderend

Day 8

Riversdale

Day 10

Mosselbay

Day 12

Knysna

Day 15

Jeffry's Bay

End

Addo NP

Day 14

Nature's Valley

Day 16

Roadbook

General information

Where to sleep?

Along this route there’s plenty of accommodation options, ranging from expensive hotels to backpackers or camping. I mostly stayed at backpackers places (average price of R150) or cheap guesthouses or B&B (R350). I could often get a discount arriving late at a guesthouse without reservation. South African people are very friendly and at times I got invited to stay at someone's home.

It’s worth getting a hold of a coast to coast, it's a small free book that list most the backpackers places in the tourist areas.

What to eat?

Most major towns have large supermarkets where you can spend too much money on nice food. In smaller towns and villages the choice is a lot more limited. Tap water is generally drinkable, but you should ask first in remote areas.

When to go?

I did this ride in June/July and even if it was winter time in South Africa, temperatures never really dropped very low. I had moderate temperatures during daytime (cycling in t shirt or light jacket).

It does get dark early in winter and when the sun goes down, it can get very cold very quick so you will need something to keep you warm.

How to navigate?

To navigate i used good old Google Maps on my phone. You don't need to be connected to the internet, just download the maps you need in advance when on WIFI.

How safe is it?

As a woman cycling alone, you have to be careful. But I guess that goes for any place. South Africa in general is not that scary place the media likes to show. Its not all violence and rape. There are nearly 52 million people in South Africa and most of them are very generous and hospitable. Start early and cycle only during daytime, try to arrive at your destination around 3PM, allowing you to look for a place to stay. Avoid cycling on pay day, as some people spend that money straight on alcohol and there’s more violence and drunken driving that day.

The image people have of South Africa is from the news and television which only shows one story. Only about violence. And about racial issues. I know there are so many different stories in the world that tv doesn’t tell us. So I wanted to see for myself. I met the most friendly black people and the most generous white people. And I met angry young black people and frustrated old white people. There’s no line in it. The only sure thing there is, all kids, no matter race or colour, gave me a big smile when passing them by with my stereo playing some Bob Marley tunes :)

As for theft, always keep an eye on your belongings. I never left my bicycle unlocked or even brought it inside if possible. Even into a supermarket. I would ask the security staff to keep an eye on it and afterwards would leave a small tip.

What about road safety?

The N2 has mostly a nice wide shoulder, but slower cars use the shoulder of the road to drive on and letting other cars pass by. Especially right after a hill this can be dangerous.

Day 13

Plettenberg Bay

Day 11

Wilderness

Day 9

Albertinia

Day 7

Swellendam

Day 5

Villiersdorp

Day 3

Stellenbosch

Day 1

Simon's Town

Cape Town – Simon’s Town (50km)

I started at Green point, following the M6 / Victoria road for about 21km to Hout Bay (21km)

Hout Bay is a nice town for a stop, have lunch,.. Fishermen are feeding seals here as a tourist attraction in the harbor.

Continue on the M6 towards Noordhoek on the famous Chapmans Peak Drive. This is a spectacular 9km coastal road, with some climbs and amazing views, sheer drops to the sea below and towering mountains rising above you. Not to miss!

Cars have to pay toll to go on this road, bicycles go for free :)

Continue on the M6 to Glen Ridge, then take the M4 towards Simon’s Town. Simon's Town is as well a harbor town, little bit more posh, nice shops and cafés. Go see the penguin colony at Boulders beach, situated 500m from Simon’s Town (60 rand)

Overnight: Quayside Hotel, fancy place (400 rand after discount), cheaper option ‘Simon’s Town Backpackers’ but i found them not that friendly

Simon’s Town – Muizenberg (67 km)

Simon’s Town – Kaap de Goede Hoop – Simon’s Town (50km)

A lot of wind on this stretch. Admission fee of 110 rand to enter Kaap de Goede Hoop. Go take your picture at the sign of the most south-western point of the african continent

From Simon’s Town to Muizenberg it's about 17km. Muizenberg is a surf hotspot and especially in weekend very busy. Lots of shops to rent surf boards (100 rand a day)

Tiger’s Milk is a very nice place to eat or hang out, especially on weekends

Overnight: Stoked backpackers, clean nice place. Other option is African Soul Surfer Backpackers

Muizenberg – Stellenbosch (45km)

Follow the coast on the Baden Powel Drive until you see the signs for Stellenbosch.

You will cycle along townships of Mitchells Plain and Khayelitsha, Better not stop or take a turn right here. I was warned not to take Baden Powell Drive because it could be dangerous but if you cycle it during day and by preference on a weekend day (a lot of people on the road going on a weekend break to Muizenberg,…), you should be fine.

Stellenbosch is student city, lots of nice shops, restaurants and bars

Overnight: Stumble inn Backpackers

Stellenbosch – Franschhoek (33km)

Leave Stellenbosh by taking the Hellshoogte Road, it is quite a long climb but not as bad as the name predicts.

Very nice scenic cycle through wineries and nice views on surrounding mountains

Franschhoek is an attractive little town, nice but not too much happening.

Nice to see/do: take your bicycle and visit the many wineries in the area or along your way from Stellenbosch, most of them offer tastings for around 50 rand

Overnight: De Alchemist guesthouse

Franschhoek – Villiersdorp (35 km)

Climb over Franschhoek Pass, 15km pass, very scenic ride

Overnight: Villiers Country Lodge

Villiersdorp – Riviersonderend through Caledon (82 km)

Small stretch of gravelroad (Boontjieskraal if I remember right) as a shortcut to go to Caledon

Overnight: Lovell’s guesthouse

Riviersonderend – Swellendam (59 km)

Nice smooth tarmac road, continuous small ascends and descends.

Overnight: African Shade guesthouse

Swellendam – Riversdale (92 km)

Overnight: Riversdale Travel Lodge

Riversdale – Albertinia (40 km)

Between Riversdale and Albertinia you can take the road to the nice beach village of Still Bay, but you will have to cycle the same road back, there’s no coastal road going east to Mosselbay.

Entering Albertinia I had some very nice food at the Engen petrol station at entrance of the town on the N2. The owner and his family are amazingly friendly, resulting in staying a couple of restdays in Albertinia.

Overnight: Homestay

Albertinia – Mosselbay (53 km)

In Mosselbay the train lodge itself is worth staying another night, its an old train put on the beach and you can rent a small cabinet, backpackers prices with 5tar view on the ocean.

Go hike the St Blaze trail, a coastal hike with amazing views! You can also visit the Bartolomeu dias museum and the oldes post office in the world (an old post tree)

Overnight: Santos Train Lodge

Mosselbay – Wilderness (70 km)

Just before entering Wilderness, there a steep climb to Dolphins lookout, make sure you don’t miss it, as after this point it goes all downhill so you don’t want to make a turn back after

I got invited by a friendly local but Wilderness has some backpackers options

Wilderness has a very nice beach, great nature, nice to spend some days here. Go see ‘map of Africa’

Overnight: Homestay

Wilderness – Knysna (40 km)

Beautiful route passing by many ‘vlei’s’ (lakes) where you can do good birdwatching. Knysna has a nice harbor area with a lot of restaurants and bars.

Overnight: Home Base Knysna Backpackers

Knysna – Plettenberg Bay (30 km)

Long climb after leaving Knysna. I was at Plettenberg Bay on a National Holiday so lots of shops were closed and the town felt bit empty. ‘The Table’ is a popular place to have a drink or eat, it's good food.

Overnight: Totem Blue Lodge

Plettenberg Bay – Natures Valley (25 km)

Long steep climb after Plettenberg Bay. Leaving the N2 to go to Wild Spirit Backpackers Lodge you will see Dairy Farm on your right, they sell the best quiches. Sign in for dinner at the Wild Spirit Backpackers Lodge, all ingredients come at of their garden and it's so yummie!

The Natures Valley beach is 10km from the lodge and a beautiful beach to relax on a sunny day

Overnight: Wild Spirit Backpackers Lodge

Natures Valley – Jeffry’s Bay (139 km)

After 20km you cross Bloukrans Bridge, you have reached the Eastern Cape yaaaay!

Finally some long flat roads. At Bloukrans Bridge make a turn left to the worlds highest commercial bungee jumping. Even if you don’t wish to jump, it’s also cool to watch.

There is cheap accommodation in Storms River if you don’t want to cycle all the way to Jeffrey’s Bay in one day

Overnight: Island Vibe Hostel JB

Jeffry’s Bay – Port Elizabeth (74 km)

You can take the N2 or the less busy R102

Port Elizabeth is not really nice to cycle or visit, area of Summerstrand is in my opinion the nicest place to stay or hang out with a nice coastal walkway

Overnight: Island Vibe Hostel PE (they have a nice hot tub)

Port Elizabeth – Addo (60 km)

Go back to the N2 and then take the R335 direction Addo. You will cycle along township of Motherwell, should be fine but start early. There's quite a lot of traffic on this road to Addo, especially trucks. At arrival visit Addo National Park, you cannot enter the park on bicycle so i hitchhiked a ride on the carpark with someone.

Overnight: Orange Elephant Backpackers

Chalo.