Chalo.
Vioolsdrift to Keetmanshoop (NAMIBIA)
A ride into the desert
Appr. 6 days / 350km
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This is a ride along the famous Fish River Canyon. The very beginning of the track after Aussenkehr and finally the view on the huge canyon are truly amazing. It's an adventurous ride mostly on sandy gravel road and it can get very hot and windy some days. But nothing beats the sense of vastness and total solitude that can be found out here. It's an intense incredible experience you'll never forget. Not a sound in the world, the wind is blowing, the ground is trembling, not long after you see a group of wild horses running in the distance. Life is great!
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In short
Pics
Route & map
Day 1
Aussenkehr
Day 3
Hobas
Day 5
Naute Dam
Start
Vioolsdrift
Day 2
Ai Ais
Day 4
Canyon roadhouse
Day 6
Keetmanshoop
Start elevation: 164m
Highest point: 941m
Total ascent: 1567m
Leaving Vioolsdrift turn left following the Orange River towards Aussenkehr. It's a very good tarmac road. You will pass some wineries and there is a turnoff to the left to Norotshama River Resort just before you enter the settlement of Ausenkehr.
In Aussenkehr you can find a SPAR supermarket, this is the last place to get your most important food supplies.
If you have the time go into the Aussenkehr Nature Reserve, amazing views and great place to watch sunset.
Overnight: camping, Norotshama River Resort
Vioolsdrift is also a nice place to stay and do some rafting on the Orange River, you could stay at Felix Unite Camp on the Namibian side or swim across Orange River and stay at Oewerbos River Camp on South African side :)
After Aussenkehr the asphalt ends and the sandy dirtroads start. Most of the time it's not too bad and you can cycle, but some stretches i was pushed into the sand too deep to cycle. Mainly flat road, with some small climbs, near the turn off to Ai Ais there is a bigger climb. Between Aussenkehr and Ai Ais there is absolutely nothing, so be prepared and bring sufficient water and food.
You will cycle through the most spectacular arid and desert mountain scenery, but it can get hot and windy out here. I got very strond headwinds which meant very low speed cycling and arriving in Ai Ais late. Treat yourself in the Ai Ais hotsprings, best feeling after a long day cycling.
Overnight: Ai Ais hotsprings (invited to sleep in one of the nice self catering houses by a very friendly SA hikers group)
Take the same road you came from yesterday for about 15km (now it goes slightly uphill leaving Ai Ais), untill there is a turn to the left, the road leading to Hobas. At Hobas there is a camping and a small kiosk.
From here it's about another 12km to the spectacular viewpoint on the world's second largest canyon, the Fish River Canyon. Get there for sunset!
Overnight: Camping at Hobas
This stretch took me 2 days, it's more of the same road but there is a pleasant surprise only about 17km after Hobas. Out of nowhere you will see Canyon Roadhouse, with a graveyard of oldtimers, a very nice restaurant and a campground. Between Canyon Roadhouse and Naute Dam there is nothing, so you will have to camp next to the road. The turn off to Naute Dam leads you to a deserted campground without any electricity or water supplies.
Overnight: Wild camping and camping at Naute Dam
It's a good flat tarmac road into Keetmanshoop. Keetmanshoop is a town where you can fill up all your food supplies, it has many shops and even some bigger hotels. Not really much to see in town but I made a nice cycle excursion from here to Quiver Tree Forest Restcamp. It's about 20km from Keetmanshoop, it starts on good tarmac raod, but after about 5km you'll take a turn off and the road becomes gravel and sandy. But nothing too bad and definitely worth a trip. At the Quiver Tree Forest Restcamp they have (expensive) lodges but you can also put your tent in the campground surrounded by magnificent Quiver Trees.
Overnight: Municipal Camp & Caravan Park Keetmanshoop / Quiver Tree Forest Restcamp
Roadbook
Hobas to Naute dam
Appr. 100km
Naute Dam to Keetmanshoop
Appr. 55km
Ai Ais to Hobas
Appr. 68km
Aussenkehr to Ai Ais
Appr. 72km
Vioolsdrift to Aussenkehr
Appr. 55km
General information
Where to sleep?
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This trip is all about camping. Except for one time i could always reach a campground in a day cycling distance. In Aussenkehr, Vioolsdrift and Ai Ais there is a guesthouse or lodge, but it's quite expensive. For a small fee you can put up your tent in their garden and make use of their facilities. You could also easily wild camp, the road is mostly unfenced. Only difficulty might be to find a spot a bit hidden, it's wide and open desert landscape.
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What to eat?
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Stock your supplies in Aussenkehr (there is a Spar supermarket offering lots of options). I bought a lot of instant soups and noodles and brought a stove with me to cook. In Hobas, the campground also sells some small litlle snacks. In Ai Ais, there is a restaurant in the lodge of Ai Ais hotsprings if you would be to tired to cook yourself. As for water, you will cycle for many hours in hot temperatures without coming across a single settlement or house, so bring plenty. Once in a while a jeep passes by slowing down and wondering what the hell you are doing, this might also be your chance to ask for a refill :)
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When to go?
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This area can get extremely hot in summer so I would advise to go during 'their' winter. I went beginning of August and experienced moderate to warm day temperatures. Wearing a jacket and buff were a necessity for the harsh headwinds you can experience. The nights are severely cold, sometimes overnight frost occurs. I brought a hot water bottle to keep me warm which was very effective.
Due to the low population density, the very low air pollution and the virtually non-existing light pollution Namibia offers ideal conditions to do stargazing at night.
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How to navigate?
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I used good old Google maps to navigate, but to be honest there aren't too many road options to get lost. On the occasional crossroad, there are always clear signs.
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Does my phone work up there?
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At the border in Vioolsdrift i got presented a local SIMcard by a super friendly Namibian girl i met. She bought it at the truckstop shop just after the border post. But going out of Vioolsdrift I soon lost signal and connection. I guess it is not a bad thing and just part of the experience of being out there totaly by yourself.
Keetmanshoop was the first place I had internet connection.
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How safe is it?
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Namibia is one of the safest countries in Africa. It has a very sparse population and the few people I met were very friendly.
Snake bites and scorpion stings are a more likely potential hazard. Although they are mainly active in summer months, it's better to always pack away your sleeping bag when it’s not in use, and tap out your boots to ensure that nothing has crept inside them during the night.